Here are a few brief reviews of Victorian wines from this week’s Good Living in the SMH.

Stonier Pinot Noir 2006, Mornington Peninsula

The regular Stonier pinot is a ripper and a great value for money wine. Lifted strawberry and sappy aromas, the palate soft and fleshy, fruit-sweet and supple, with glossy tannins and lovely texture. Oodles of charm here.

Kooyong Massale Pinot Noir 2006, Mornington Peninsula

Deep colour leads into a subtly wooded but amply fruit-endowed wine with black-cherry to plum flavours of good weight and amplitude. Not as fine or complex as the dearer Kooyong pinots, but a very good entry-level pinot. Drink now to five years.

Giant Steps Tarraford Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005, Yarra Valley

The colour is light and the bouquet reflects some stemmy, whole-bunch character with a vegetal edge, while the palate is deep and rich in sweeter ripe-fruit notes. A complex wine in a more Burgundian vein. Drink now to four years.

De Bortoli Estate Grown Pinot Noir 2006, Yarra Valley

Seems a bit oaky and charred at first pour, but opens up into a silken textured, succulent, sweet-fruited wine with smooth palate and elegance. Subtlety allied with profundity. Now to eight years.

Eldridge Estate Pinot Noir 2005, Mornington Peninsula

One of David Lloyd’s best: a lovely wine with sweet strawberry and red-cheery aromas that run seamlessly into a fine, light-bodied palate of intensity and refinement without heaviness. A true high-altitude thoroughbred. Now to seven years.

Bindi Composition Pinot Noir 2006, Macedon Ranges

Bindi’s cheaper pinot comes from mainly younger vines. A perfumed, slightly tutti-frutti nose of sweet cherry, strawberry and vanilla is simple and bold and fruit-forward. A lovely, more-ish wine of delicacy, it wins you over with charm, not force. Now to five years.