This weeks SMH Wine of the Week is the d’Arenberg The Last Ditch Viogner, Adelaide Hills and McLaren Vale 2008. Huon Hooke writes:

‘Viogner is a difficult beast: the good ones are few and far between but d’Arenberg’s Chester Osborne nails it more often than not. This is a subtly complex example with hints of barrel ferment and yeasty characters adding extra interest.

Toasty, bready yeast, nut and stone-fruit aromas are nicely balanced and layered: it’s a far cry from the shrill, one dimensional apricotty viogners. The palate is soft and round, with fresh acid in balance, and good drinkability, thanks to modest alcohol (13.5 per cent) and not too much oily glycerol. Lovely drinking now. 94/100.

Food – Poached chicken, deep-fried fish and chips, vegetable lasagna, washed-rind and white-mould cheeses.’