Voyager Estate Girt by SeaHuon Hooke’s SMH wine of the week this week is the Voyager Estate Girt By Sea Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2007. Huon writes:

‘Long-serving winemaker Cliff Royle and viticulturist Steve James made a great double act at Voyager, until Royle departed recently. But he’s left this gem as his legacy. It’s a seriously good red and great value at the price.

Quality cabernet aromas of blackberry and blackcurrant laced with spice; oak is barely perceptible and the fruit does the talking. It’s deep and elegant with fine balance and intensity. Markedly varietal but properly ripe and of pristine quality. From a very successful red year in the Margaret River region. Drink now to 15 years-plus. 94/100.

Food – Pink roast leg of lamb; vitello tonnato; casseroled kid; hard cheeses such as parmesan, compte and cheddar.