This ninth edition of the Bulles de Comptoir, called Tradition, is a blend of 60% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 10 Pinot Blanc. The vines are located in in Aube region, some way from the traditional Champagne heartland. 80% of the wines come from the 2018 vintage, while the rest come from perpetual reserves (solara system) from 2010 and 2017. No fining, no filtration, no dosage. 12% alcohol.

Beautiful bright gold in colour with initial aromas of fresh bread, yeast, honey, stone fruit, lemon citrus.

The palate is rich, full bodied, mouth filling with a fine bead that explodes in the mouth. Long dry chalky salty finish. Although rich and luscious, it’s balanced perfectly by the crisp acidity.

This is no austere aperitif champagne; this champagne is crying out for food, and we don’t mean oysters! We just enjoyed a bottle with home cured gravlax, Sicilian olives and Parmesan cheese – but not the blue cheese seen on the platter. Someone suggested sashimi and soy sauce – sounds weird, but having drunk the champagne we are right on board. With the gravlax and cream cheese, it was a match from heaven, surely my favourite food-friendly champagne tasting. 

I’d love to shake the hand of the man who made this; it’s one of my most enjoyable champagne moments. 

Supplied again by Dave Chan of, source of some of the most wonderful boutique Champagnes we have known. 

Champagne Charles Dufour Bulles de Comptoir #9
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