The 2006 Cumulus Climbing Shiraz is this week’s wine of the week in today’s SMH.

Huon Hooke says:

“Of the Cumulus winery’s two labels, Climbing is from Orange grapes while the cheaper Rolling is from the wider Central Ranges. This is possibly the most impressive wine I’ve tasted from Cumulus. It’s a splendid shiraz that tastes as though it’s been built up with some good smoky, charred oak. It’s bigger and more opulent than expected from the cool Orange region, with some liquorice, blackberry and plum aromas and a faint whiff of jam. In the mouth, it has a generous helping of flavour, rich and satisfying, with ample tannins providing a good structure and clean finish. It’s remarkable value at about $20. Best now to 10-plus years. 93/100

Food pairings: most red meat dishes and hard cheeses. Try rare grilled steak, beef bourguignon and cheeses such as Pyengana cheddar and comte.”