After a couple of slightly disappointing versions of this usually reliable wine, some big reviews are starting to appear about the 2008 model.

So we duly grabbed a bottle and tried it with a super quick stir fry of sliced beef, vegetables, mushrooms, soy and oyster sauce and roasted cashews; not bad for a total preparation and cooking time of 20 minutes – and the wine went fine.

Colour is bright cherry/ruby.

Nose shows soft spice, red fruit, light cherry with a lovely mix of earthy/savoury notes to add extra interest. Elegant and pretty could describe it.

Palate is medium bodied with a silky texture. It avoids the rasberry, confectionary spectrum very well with some lovely savoury or undergrowthy characters, tannins are savoury and soft and entirely appropriate for this wine.

It is elegant and you could say ‘pretty’ but in the nicest way. It retains a lovely structure and texture and the finish is soft, spicy and quite long. Alcohol is 13.5%. I think Steve Webber and the DB team have come up with another cracker here so I advise getting your stocks in the cellarnow while the specials are on.

With the heat wave stricken 2008 vintage much talked about, we are still able to find wines like this; perfectly made with restraint and clearly superb fruit quality.