This is Huon Hooke’s wine of the week from last week’s Sydney Morning Herald.

The Thorn-Clarke Shotfire Quartage is always an elegant style of cabernet for the Barossa Valley and I suspect there’s a fair bit of high-altitude fruit in it. the dark-berry flavours are explosive and the wine combines elegance with power. Oak plays a secondary, supportive role and the fruit has brightness and great charm.

It’s a far cry from the dead-fruit, overripe style of some Barossa makers. The tannins are fine-grained and beautifully modulated, adding just the right firmness to a clean finish. An excellent red, blended from the five Bordeaux grapes: cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec, merlot and petit verdot.

Can be drunk now to 12+ years, but best cellared a year or two at least.

Recommended food pairings: Roast leg of lamb, osso buco, rabbit casserole, all hard cheeses – especially cheddar and pecorino.