The 2006 Villa Wolf Pinot Gris from Pfalz, Germany, is the wine of the week in today’s SMH. Huon Hooke writes:

“This expression of pinot gris reminds more of Alsace than any other place, no doubt because the Pfalz region lies just across the Rhine River from Alsace on the German side of the border. In the best Alsace style, it has some sweetness and a heightened aromatic edge to its bouquet. Ripe peach and nectarine aromas combine with a suggestion of honey in a very expressive nose. The palate is rich and seamless, with ripe fruit balanced by sweetness and, while the acidity is not obvious, it’s there, helping to keep the palate fresh. The texture is smooth and graceful, combining generosity and subtlety. Lovely stuff. It’s from the J.L. Wolf Estate, owned since 1996 by one of Germany’s greatest riesling producers, Dr Loosen.”

Wine and food matching suggestions: Quiches, patés, washed-rind cheeses; fish and white-fleshed poultry in rich creamy sauces.