Huon Hooke’s wine of the week in the SMH on Tuesday was 42 Degrees South Pinot Noir, 2004.

He says, “This label is the new focus for Wellington Wines produced by Andrew Hood and his team just outside Hobart. It won a gold medal and topped the 2004-and-older pinot class in January’s Tasmanian regional wine show. It’s in great nick for its age. Spicy red- and black-cherry aromas give it a fruit-driven bouquet of complexity and style. It’s quite big for a Tassie pinot: smooth and lushly fruited in the mouth, with generous flavour, length and harmony. A totally delicious drink, now and for the next three or four years.”

Food recommendations: barbecued quail, Chinese duck roll-ups, crown roast of hare with roasted beetroot.

Put some in your wine cellar.