Huon Hooke’s SMH wine of the week is the Hungerford Hill Tumbarumba Chardonnay 2008.
‘Michael Hatcher and Phillip John are doing terrific things with Hungerford Hill’s wines. Their two 08 Tumbarumba chardonnays (the reserve won’t be released for a few months) are a case in point. Both are exceptional. This one had just 40% barrel fermentation in new French oak and is very subtly oak influenced. The main aromas and flavours are of lemon and grapefruit, with a subtle underlay of peach and nuttiness from the oak. It’s fruit-driven, and a large part of the wine’s finesse comes from the acidity, which tastes very natural- that is, unadjusted. This gives a seamless flow to the very finely textured palate. Now to five years. 94/100.
Food – Ripe runny brie, creamy goat’s cheeses, crustaceans and most fish dishes, as well as stuffed, roasted chicken.