Penfolds Thomas Hyland Chardonnay, 2006, is Huon Hooke’s wine of the week in today’s SMH Good Living. He says:

“The big companies have come a long way with their inexpensive chardonnays. They’re subtle, light and refined yet intense, are not woody yet have undersated complexity – more than ever before.

This wine, often priced below $20, is a lovely, lovely drink. It’s fresh, subtly fruity with understated but evident oak adding a layer of character over the peach-nectarine fruit. It retains delicacy and subtlety on the palate while being well concentrated and intense, lingering and with restrained power.

A model chardonnay and, because of its low-key oak, all the more digestible and wide in its appeal. Drink now to three or four years.”