Yalumba bush vine grenacheHuon Hooke’s wine of the week in today’s SMH Good Living is the 2009 Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache from the Barossa Valley.

He says: “Bush vines are the preferred way to grow grenache – as opposed to the orderly rows of trellis wires that support most vines. Grenache is grown as a bush in Provence and the Rhone Valley as well as the Barossa. Yalumba has a range of grenaches, this one being its cheapest. It’s not a complex wine but is very accessible in its youth, thanks to a combination of soft, light tannins and sweetly juicy fruit. The shape is round and the texture seductively smooth. There’s a hint of confectionery about it. You don’t have to wait for it to mature. It’s ready young – like pinot noir. Drink now to 2017. 14% alcohol. 90/100.

Food suggestion: Hearty winter pies, especially steak and kidney; pasta with a game ragu; barbecued kangaroo fillet.

So this is not one for the cellar.